Hiking At Peñalara: What I Wish I Knew Before Going in Winter
A day trip to Madrid's most popular hiking spot — beautiful, icy, and humbling. Here's everything you need to know about getting there, what to bring, and why I had to order ice spikes from Amazon when I got home.
Today my friend Patrick and I decided to go hiking at Peñalara — the most popular hiking spot near Madrid. I had been there once before, so I thought I knew what I was doing.
I did not.
What to Expect in November–December
Peñalara sits at about 2,400 meters above sea level, which means by late autumn, it's a completely different beast compared to summer. The altitude combined with freezing temperatures turns most of the trail into a solid sheet of ice. It's gorgeous, honestly — but also kind of dangerous if you show up in regular sneakers like I did.
The first time I hiked here was about two months ago. I wore regular sneakers, the weather was fine, and I made it all the way to the top with no problem. So naturally, I thought — how different could it be?
Very different. Very, very different.
We made it about 40 minutes up before we admitted defeat. The ice was thick, the trail was slippery, and without proper gear we were basically just slowly shuffling sideways and hoping for the best. We didn't make it to the top, but we did build a snowman and take some pictures, so I'm calling it a partial win.
Equipment: What You Actually Need in Winter
Look, most people on the trail were smarter than us. They came prepared with:
- Snow grip spikes (crampons) — you can clip these onto regular shoes, and they make a massive difference on icy trails. I ordered a pair from Amazon the same evening I got home.
- Hiking sticks — especially useful if you're bringing kids or older family members
- Sunglasses — the reflection off the snow is brutal, don't skip this
- A backpack with water and light snacks or a sandwich
I also saw some young people skiing down the trail, which looked fun but honestly felt a little chaotic given how crowded it gets. I wouldn't recommend it, especially if there are kids around.
In summer, regular sneakers are totally fine. In winter, just get the spikes. They're like €15–20 on Amazon and will completely change your experience.
⚠️ Safety note: Peñalara in winter is not a casual stroll. The upper trail is covered in hard ice, there's no phone signal at the top, and rescue services do get called out here. If you don't have crampons and experience on icy terrain, turn back — there's no shame in it. We did.
The Trail
I used AllTrails to plan the route, and it was genuinely useful — especially when most of the trail markers were buried under snow.
The main route starts at Puerto de Cotos (1,830m) and climbs to the summit at 2,428m — about 600m of elevation gain over roughly 5–6km one way. The path winds through pine forest before opening up into exposed rocky terrain near the top. In summer it's a well-marked, straightforward hike. In winter, the upper section is a different story.
At the trailhead, there's a restroom (you can't miss it) and a small restaurant where you can grab drinks and snacks. Most people seem to bring their own lunch though, which is what we did.
Getting There: Bus 691 from Madrid
No car? No problem — there's a direct bus that takes you straight to the trailhead.
From Metro Moncloa station, take Bus 691 to Puerto de Cotos. That's your stop, right at the trailhead.
Ticket price: €3 each way
Free if you have: Youth transportation card (10€ all-zone) or Madrid transportation card for over 65.
My honest advice: come before 8am. I got there around 8am and the line was already long. I still waited about an hour to get on. Some friends of mine came a bit later and waited two hours — and couldn't get on at all.
On weekends, buses run every 15 minutes between 8–10am, but the demand is way higher than that. Early bird gets the bus, basically.
Return buses start at 14:15 from the same stop (Puerto de Cotos). As of February 2026 — double check before you go, schedules can change.
If you're driving, here's the parking lot near the trailhead:
Quick Summary
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Location | Puerto de Cotos, Sierra de Guadarrama |
| Bus | 691 from Metro Moncloa → Puerto de Cotos |
| Bus price | €3 each way (free with youth/senior card) |
| Winter gear | Snow grip spikes, hiking sticks, sunglasses |
| Facilities | Restroom + restaurant at trailhead |
| Best arrival time | Before 8am on weekends |
Despite not making it to the top, it was still a great day out. There's something weirdly satisfying about being surrounded by snow and mountains just an hour from the city. I'm already planning to go back once my ice spikes arrive.
If you're thinking about doing this hike in winter — just bring the gear. Learn from my mistake so you don't have to make it yourself.